Thesis
In vivo Pilot Study of Moisturizer Evaluation and Correlation between Ceramides Gene Expression Towards Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) in Skin Barrier
Stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the skin surrounded by the lipid matrix and forms
a multilamellar barrier for the skin. The main function of this layer is to prevent the permeation of
external molecules into the epidermal and dermal layers and prevent excessive water loss from the
skin (van Smeden & Bouwstra, n.d.). As the lamellar barrier's major lipid component, ceramides are
crucial for the skin barrier function. Changes in ceramide profile are highly associated with barrier
function impairment and correlated with trans epidermal water loss (TEWL), representing the
water-holding ability of the skin barrier. Moisturizer efficiency in improving the barrier function was
evaluated by TEWL measurement on seven subjects with three-time point measurements within four
weeks (week 0, week 2, and week 4). Daily moisturizer application on most issues treated side of
forearms led to the decrease of TEWL in the following measurement week compared to TEWL of the
untreated forearms in which most subjects had the TEWL increased. This improvement might result
from the active ingredients contained in the tested moisturizer product. However, the moisturizer's
effectiveness was different in every subject, indicated by the variety of the TEWL results.
Furthermore, the moisturizer composition might not be suitable for several subjects, which leads to
disruption of barrier lipid composition and TEWL increase.
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